Centre of Portugal - a wow destination off the beaten track

Most people travel to one of three locations in Portugal- the Algarve, for beaches and sunshine. Lisbon, for culture and city breaks. Porto for wine, Port, and gastronomy holidays. Yet Portugal has so much to offer in the centre of the country; the 300km or so that separate Porto in the north and Lisbon in the south. Wine Travel Experts spent time in the Centre of Portugal this June to discover this lesser known region. And what an absolutely incredible trip that was. Here are out thoughts and highlights.

                                                

The Centre of Portugal is very accessible. Both Porto and Lisbon have multiple international flights arriving daily; you can even fly into one city and out of the other, giving many transport options. This is a region that is made for a fly drive holiday. The roads are well maintained, plentiful and (compared to the UK) empty. Car hire is very affordable. Driving in Portugal is straightforward. There are some options for travelling by train, but these are limited to the largest towns and cities in the region. Some form of road transport is essential to really make the most of your time in the Centre of Portugal.

Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz is a coastal bohemian town, about an hour outside of Lisbon. This is a brilliant first stop from Lisbon. Santa Cruz is a surfers paradise. Even if you aren’t a surfer yourself, you will enjoy the laid back vibe of the town. There are numerous shops, bars and restaurants to explore in a town that styles itself on a welcoming, surfers paradise. The beaches are swathes of golden sand – and unlike more well known resorts – there is always plenty of space to sunbathe here. The ocean breezes keep the temperatures down, so in contrast to other beach resorts in Europe, holiday makers can enjoy temperatures in the late twenties well into the traditional summer holiday months. The Atlantic ocean produces mesmerising waves across the coastline. There are many days when you wouldn’t want to swim in the sea, due to the waves, but on a day like this, enjoy the beach, stroll along the coastline or simply get absorbed by the waves from one of the local cafes or restaurants and watch from afar.

If you are travelling with children, a perfect place to stay is Noah’s Surf house. This hotel is achingly cool and perfect for families. You can stay in self-contained apartments, that nestle on the gentle hillside overlooking the ocean. There’s so much more space here than in a traditional hotel room. The timetable of activities runs throughout the day and includes yoga, trampolining, skateboard lessons and chocolate classes. Children can even have surf lessons here, in the purpose built onsite pool. After a surf lesson, children are encouraged to graffiti the exterior walls of the hotel; their artwork is washed away weekly, allowing new guests to take part. And if that wasn’t enough, children can help to take care of the chickens living in the hotel grounds.

The food and drinks served here are excellent and suitable for the entire family and are reasonably priced. This really is the perfect family retreat. The only problem will be when time comes to leave Noah’s behind!

For those looking for a more exclusive, refined hotel, the stylish Areias do Seixo  (pronounced Array-esh do Say-Shoe) is a truly unique place to stay. A ten minute drive from the centre of Santa Cruz, this hotel is the brainchild of owner Marta; one o the most welcoming and smiley people you could wish you meet. Her Circle of Fire evenings are not to be missed – Marta and her family entertain guests, sat around a campfire, with their folk music band. It is a very special evening to take part in (and all are welcome).

The Areias do Seixo offers a small number of boutique hotel rooms and large, multi-storey villas (with private pools). All accommodation is rustic chic in style, with natural materials dominating the décor. Rent a villa and kids have their own floor, complete with multiple bunk beds, an indoor tree house, football table and enormous TV screen and beanbags for movie nights. The focus at this hotel is to rest and recharge in nature. The food is local, fresh and absolutely delicious. At breakfast, there will always be detox smoothies, freshly chopped fruit and multiple types of healthy granola to enjoy. An absolute highlight of any stay at the Areias do Seixo is taking a guided coastal walk with Miguel. Miguel’s knowledge of the local landscape and his absolute passion for wildlife is unsurpassed.

                                   

About twenty minutes from Santa Cruz is Cas’Amaro, a pioneering organic winery in the heart of the Lisbon wine region. Wow! What a place! 15 years ago, the winery didn’t exist. In that time, 5ha of land has been planted with different native grape varieties, a small winery has been built, and phenomenal boutique accommodation has been created. Paolo and Rui are the visionary owners of Cas’Amaro. They learnt about organic viticulture in New Zealand and transferred this knowledge to their own vineyards. Everything here is considered, thought-through and carefully implemented. Cas’Amaro wines are made to drink and enjoy, not to age and cellar. The ocean breezes cool and refresh the vineyards, acting as a natural deterrent for vineyard diseases such as mildew. Production is low, quality is high and style is top draw. The label designer for Cas’Amaro also designs videos and album covers for U2. Guests staying here can take part in vineyard activities, such as harvesting (season permitting). Weddings are hosted here and can include personalised labels on the wedding wine. Our favourite wine was the Jaen – a fruity, vibrant red wine that could be served lightly chilled on a warm day.

                                                               

The name Cas’Amaro means gossip – when Rui and Paolo were building the winery, locals said the viticulture style they had planned wouldn’t work – 15 years later and the Cas’Amaro team have proven them wrong!

The accommodation here is just breathtaking. A private house, in the vineyard, with an infinity pool overlooking the vines. The house is partly made out of old wine deposit tanks and a traditional grape press and lagare sits in the corner of the living room. A tunnel connects the main part of the house to the bedrooms – planners wouldn’t grant permission to connect the two locations above land. Floor to ceiling picture windows are perfectly positioned – one to catch sunrise and the other to catch sunset. This is a one of a kind place to stay. Somewhere truly special and highly memorable.

óbidos

óbidos is known as one of the 7 wonders of Portugal. It is an enchanting walled village that houses only 50 inhabitants, but has 12 different churches! It is a beautiful place to explore on foot, with plentiful shops and restaurants to relax in. It is one of Europe’s best preserved villages from the medieval period and is such a charming and inviting place to explore. The main shopping street includes craft shops, souvenir shops and many shops selling the local drink – Ginja. This is a sweet, cherry liqueur that is best served chilled (and from a chocolate cup)! You simply drink the liqueur and then eat the cup afterwards. The history of óbidos

dates back to the 12^th century when King Afonso Henriques gifted the town to his future bride – Elizabeth. óbidos would be gifted to future queens until the 1800s. Queen Elizabeth would go on to become an incredibly popular monarch, known for her kindness and caring nature. There are statues of Elizabeth across the country. Óbidos is known for throwing a great festival and there are many scattered throughout the calendar. Visitors to óbidos can explore the town during its chocolate festival. Or they may prefer the medieval festival. The literary festival is renowned across the country, or alternatively óbidos is famed for its Christmas markets and festivities. There really is something for everyone here. Our top tip – come early in the day, or late in the day, just in case you run into a cruise ship group!

               

9km outside of the town, there is a beautiful óbidos lagoon (Lagoa de Óbidos). This beautiful, calm natural lake is Portugal’s largest salt water lagoon, complete with natural tides. The lagoon is 7km square and its gentle waters make it ideal for kite surfing – great to watch and great to take part in! Other alternatives here include boat rides, bird watching (3 different species of vulture call this lagoon home), nature walks and for the young at heart, there are beautiful sandy beaches to enjoy and build sand castles. The town of Foz de Arehlo sits at the northern shore of the lake and here you can enjoy incredible fresh seafood at some very reasonably priced locations.

Tomar

Tomar is the most well-preserved Templar town in the world. Founded in the 1100s, it was a seat of the knight’s templar until 1308. Now an incredibly artistic town, it is worth visiting to admire the 12^th century Convent of Christ and the Templar chapel. The medieval old town is the place to head to, for some traditional shopping. A real treat is taking time to pause in one of the cafes and enjoying Fatias de Tomar. These are simply prepared thick slices of syrupy eggy bread – a lot nicer than this description makes them sound! The town also has a strong Jewish history and is home to striking 15^th century synagogue.

No visit to the Centre of Portugal would be complete without stopping off in the musical city of Coimbra. This vibrant city buzzes with life and has the UNESCO 12^th century university at its heart. This university is truly breathtaking and should be top of the list of anyone exploring the city. Coimbra was, for a time in the Middle Ages, the capital of Portugal, but it was the Renaissance period that this city is really known for. In this point in time, Coimbra flourished and it has retained its art and music focus ever since.

Coimbra. Coimbra has its own classic guitar (with 12 strings) and you can often hear music being played throughout the city, by live performers.

Viseu

Viseu’s name means ‘good view’ and even centuries after the city was founded, Viseu can rightfully boast of excellent panoramic views from its heights. Viseu straddles the river Dão and lies at the heart of the Dão wine region. The Dão is not as well known as its northern neighbour, the Douro Valley, but the wines here are excellent and offer phenomenal value for money. The Dão used to be the wine region of choice for the European monarchs of the 17^th and 18^th centuries and was nicknamed ‘The Burgundy of the South’ for its fresh white wines that had a great propensity to age. The Dão produces many different wine varieties, but the standout white has to be the Encruzado grape. Not only does it have a brilliant name, but it makes delicious wines. Think of the freshness of an Albarino, with the body of a Chardonnay and you are close to the Encruzado wine style. Trust us – they are worth a try! Viseu is also home to some fantastic restaurants, including some that feature in the Michelin guide. Viseu is known as the happiest place to live in Portugal – with the quality of food and wine available, it is not hard to see why.

                     

Viseu was the birthplace of Portugal’s most famous artist - Vasco Fernandes – and his 16^th century artworks can be found in museums and other institutions across the city, all in remarkable condition.

Viseu is a city well worth basing yourself in, to explore the nearby villages, caves and hillsides.

Aveiro

Aveiro is a town dominated by water – it is next to the sea and cris-crossed by a myriad of river estuaries. Boats are key to life in Aveiro and this combined, has led to the town being called ‘Portugal’s Venice’. A visit here involves time on the water, or, as the city is flat, hiring a bike and exploring by one of the city’s free BUGA bikes. A must try sweet treat in Aveiro are the Ovos Moles, a local dessert, made from sugar, eggs and water, wrapped in a crusty wafer and sold in little wooden barrels. For a more substantial bite, it is no surprise that seafood is served throughout this town. Nearby, the São Jacinto Dunes Natural Reserve is worth visiting for its striking, undeveloped beaches. Or for somewhere a bit livelier, a trip to the Praia da Barra beach is also worth a visit.

                             

Santar

Santar is a small village, with a secret at its heart. Behind the walls of the Casa de Santar lies some of the most spectacular gardens in Portugal. Take a guided tour here, to learn about the vision of the aristocratic owners that made these gardens so special. Discover the vineyard and winery hidden amongst the gardens and take home a bottle or two of this really special wine production.

A stay in the Valverde hotel, is a stay in a little piece of paradise. Here you can relax, unwind and recharge, making use of the spa facilities or the heated outdoor pool that overlooks the vineyard. Just gorgeous.

                                              

At the end of your time in the Centre of Portugal, it is a short journey to Porto. Here you must not miss exploring Portugal’s second city, with its markets, restaurants and, of course, the wines and ports of the Douro Valley.